in bed, watching TV with Stella at my feet
And I started pad stitching the under-collar. I didn't get very far though, before I had to get back in the car and drive somewhere else. So I finished it yesterday.
IT WAS EASY! I don't know why I'd always been scared of pad stitching. It was really simple to do and it really did work!
Then I pinned the under-collar onto my tailors ham, got out my new fandangled steamer and gave it a good steam.
Then I started the construction of the body of the jacket. I sewed the shoulder seams and then stitched the allowances down (and while I was at it I stitched the centre back seam allowances down too)
Normally I would sew the side seams too, but I wanted to try putting the sleeve in before I did that. This means you can close the side seam and the sleeve seam all at once, which gives you a really good opportunity to iron the shoulder seam first.
It was actually a pretty easy thing to do. I wouldn't say that it was easier than doing it the other way, but this way does have its benefits!
Things were going along really well at this point, so I then closed the side seams and sewed the collar on! And then I thought, lets do the facing!!! (I think I got a bit excited about the fact that it was actually becoming something recognisable!)
But then I realised that it was time to cook dinner, so I put it on my headless helper and left it until this morning when I went to take some photos for this blog post. So here it is!
There aren't any shoulder pads in there just yet, which is why it looks a bit droopy at the back.
It was then that I realised I got a bit over-excited and forgot to do something.
NO BOUND BUTTON HOLE WINDOWS ON THE JACKET FACING!!!!!
Sigh!
Thankfully this can be fixed. It is a bit of a pain, and fiddly, but it can be done.
Then I thought, lets sit the fur collar on and take a photo!
NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
Sigh!
Now I did actually measure that this would all work before I made the collar, but I didn't take into account the thickness of the wool. As I see it I have three options:
- Unpick the top layer of the collar and attach the fur instead (ugh, unpicking - and the vintage collar will forever be part of this suit)
- Make a new fur collar that matches perfectly (sounds like a lot of work)
- Leave the suit as it is now and wear the fur collar with a cardigan instead (the easy way out, which isn't always the best way out)
I can't make up my mind. What would you do?
Beccie
xxx
oh dear...not nice..
ReplyDeleteehm...i guess i would go for option 2 and 3. Leave it for now and wear fur collar with cardigans AND (if you have the materials) make another new collar that fits... option 1 doesn't sound right to me..
in the meantime...the whole underlining and then sewing the seam allowances down looks like a lot of handstitching but it looks good!!..i never underlined anything .. a bit scared of the process, but it actually doesn't look that difficult..so thanks for that....:-)
Thanks Irene... I'm leaning towards leaving it as it is.
DeleteAnd yes, there is A LOT of hand sewing in a tailored garment. This is only my second one, and I've gone a lot further into the interlining with hair canvas with this one because of the fabric. And the process is really quite simple. Have a look at my previous post (if you haven't already) and I mention a book that I am referring to when I make my suits - it explains vintage couture tailoring techniques. Well worth the read, but don't let it put you off!
Argh, unpicking really sucks! You made such a wonderful job so far, I admire your precision and the many details, the tremendous labour put in that garment... I know you bought the fur collar and actually intended the green suit to be the right "base" for that lovely accessory, but then, you still could make another suit (yes!) for this collar and leave the green suit as it is. You can, of course, make a new fur collar for the green suit (detachable, so you still could wear the suit with or without). But I think you already put so much work in the suit, unpicking adds even more, so sometimes we just have to be reasonable. I guess you could live with option 2 and/ or 3... :-)
ReplyDeleteI think I agree Doris.... It has been a bit of work so far and the thought of unpicking it makes me want to cry. And yes I did intend this to be the perfect base for the collar, but not everything works out the way you intend, does it...
DeleteI'm happy to be reasonable and go with a blend of 2 and 3 :)
And, by the way, the green suit looks perfect so far! I would wear it in a heartbeat, I love the colour!
ReplyDeleteThe colour is divine! I think with the full skirt its going to be a show stopper! :)
DeleteDevastating! Just a thought......what about a mandarin collar? Then it doesn't matter that it finishes short of where the jacket meets and in theory it will wrap the fur in tighter around your neck as it stands up rather than splays out
ReplyDeletehmmmmm.....
DeleteNumber 3! Number 3! That way you can enjoy this project now. : ) Which is coming along nicely, by the way!
ReplyDeleteI think I'm with you Kim!
DeleteI think the fur collar looks ok the way it is. You could wear it with or without the fur embellishment. I love your blog by the way.
ReplyDeleteThanks Connie :)
DeleteAnd that's what happens when you can't concentrate on your sewing ! arghhhh ! The jacket is lovely, it will look fab once the shoulder pads are in. I would go for option 3 myself, in fact right size or not, I'm not entirely crazy about the collar on that jacket (texture and colour), the beads to me clash with the "organic" impression of the texture and colour (not quite sure I'm expressing myself rightly here, sorry !) But then it's a matter of personal opinion/impression of course ! And the collar can be used on another garment for sure ! You know Beccie I always say things happen for a reason and if it had been me making this beauty (I wish !) I would have concluded that the reason the collar didn't work out due to thickness/measurements was because it wasn't meant for this particular suit. But as I said it's only my personal feeling ! Apologies about so much waffling on ! I hope you are keeping healthy too with your new condition. Take care and much love Spain :)
ReplyDeleteI'm with you about the 'things happen for a reason' bit. And thats why I think I'm going to go with option 3 - these things just weren't meant to be together.
DeleteI am keeping well thanks Johanna. I was going to say something in this post but decided not to - the antidepressant dose I was taking stopped working last week. It took me a week to realise why I was feeling off and by then I was a bit of a mess and wasn't able to get out of bed... but I dragged myself to the doctor, and I have a new dose, so things are looking up again. Apparently this is normal and I'm not to worry :)
<3 xxx
Oh shit!! I dont know what you can do about that one.
ReplyDeleteI think you shouldn't fuss around with the suit as that will only be too much work. You can always make a new one to fit the collar and still have this suit. You could then make a new collar for the green suit when you feel like it.
I may have used a similar, if more 'colourful' expression, but yes, thats pretty much what I said!
DeleteThis is a beautiful jacket as it is. I'd leave it and enjoy it 'as is' and use the fur collar somewhere else. Fabulous work you've done!
ReplyDelete