Make your own Shoulder Pads!

I will never buy those crunchy polyester ones again!  This was just waaaaaay too easy.

STEP ONE : Make your pattern
This was super simple.  I measured my coat along the shoulder seam from the arm to the neck, which was 5 inches, so I decided shoulder pads needed to be 4.5 inches to work.  So, using some paper I cut a semi-circle that had a radius of 4.5 inches, then another one that was 4 inches, and another one that was 3.5 inches, and a final one that was 3 inches.

STEP TWO : Cut out the bits

Using some cotton wadding (the same stuff I used to interline my black coat) I cut out the three smaller circles so I had two of each.  I cut mine on the fold so I ended up with circles, but if I wanted smaller shoulder pads I would have cut them as semi-circles, not full circles... hope that makes sense!

Then I cut the biggest circle from the same fabric as my coat.  I figured this way they would totally blend in to my coat.  And even if I had cut semi-circles from the wadding, I still would have cut a full circle from the coat fabric, to totally wrap around the wadding.

STEP THREE : Stack em up!

At this point you can hand sew the circles together, but this fabric is fairly 'grippy' so I wasn't really worried about things getting out of shape.  So all I did was fold it over like a taco and pin it closed.

STEP FOUR : Sew it together

I used my zipper foot so I could get right up close to the first layer, and sewed all the way along the open curve.

STEP FIVE : Sew them in

To secure them into my coat, I sewed them to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam, and I also tack the corners to the seam allowance around the arm hole.

HOW EASY WAS THAT!!!!!

And they make such a difference!!!

(excuse the quality of the photo - I had to lighten it a fair bit...)

The left side (as you look at it) has the shoulder pad in, the right side has no shoulder pad.  And its hard to tell but there was an obvious need for the shoulder pads because there was excess fabric and it was all sad and droopy...

MUCH better with, I guarantee you!!!

Anyone else made their own shoulder pads before?

Beccie
xxx

The 1940s Coat

This coat came together really quickly despite all the Hong Kong Seam Binding that needed to be done... and all the catch stitching that needed to be done (around the hem, the facing on both fronts, AND the sleeves!) and the shoulder pads I needed to make.

And can I tell you, I just love this style!

 

The wool flannel is so thick and springy that you don't even notice that its not lined!

And because I had to make it extra long because of the dress, it flicks nicely when I walk!

And the shoulder pads I made are just the right size I think!  I'm going to show you next week how I made them - SUPER simple!

But here is the dress that started it all

I know those look like flowers - but they are a red and a cream elephant with their trunks intertwined!

I really just can't believe how well this 1940s dress fits me!  And the rayon!!!!  Oh my goodness I am in love with rayon - its light and slinky and sexy and it swishes... oooooo its DIVINE!!!!!

I did find a couple of small holes when I was ironing it, but shhhhh!  I won't let that stop me from wearing it - its just too gorgeous.

So now, after making three coats this season I'm really looking forward to sewing something else!  

Beccie

xxx

Hong Kong Seam Binding My Way

I'm sure there are a thousand tutorials on the net explaining how to do this - but I thought 'hey, whats one more!'.  So here is my way of doing Hong Kong Seam Binding.  I treat this process as 'sewing preparation' just like cutting out, marking things, and sewing darts.  I get it over and done with before I start construction.

1. Cut out all the pattern pieces required for your pattern
Pretty obvious really, I know.  Cut them all out and mark whatever you need to mark.

2. Cut the bias tape to length
Take the first pattern piece off your pile and measure the bias tape against the edge you want to bind.  I cut mine so I have about an inch extra on each end just in case...

3. Iron one fold of the bias tape open
I would buy single fold bias tape if I could, but I can't.  If you can, go for it, and skip this step!

4. Sew ironed flat side of bias tape to wrong side of fabric
Line up the bias tape and the fabric, and then sew a line of stitching half way between the edge of the bias tape and the fold line you just flattened.  Don't forget to leave a piece overhanging at the start!

5. Iron the bias tape over to the right side
With the fabric right side down on the ironing board, iron the bias tape so it folds over the line of stitching you just did, and protrudes past the edge of your fabric piece

6. Turn the fabric over so its ride side up, and iron the bias tape down
With the fabric right side up, fold the bias tape over so it snuggly covers the edge of the fabric, and iron it down to make a crease.

7. Sew the bias tape to the fabric
Run a line of stitching down the bias tape near the edge of the tape, encasing the raw edge of the fabric.  Cut off the bits of bias tape that protrude from each end.  You don't need them now.

8. Celebrate, cause you've bound one edge
Repeat ad nauseum until you've bound all the edges that need binding

When you've bound all the edges, then you can start constructing your garment.  And when you iron the seams open, they will look like this:

NOTE: I've been thinking about darts - should I bind the edge before or after I do the darts?  And I've decided I should do it after.  And on thick fabrics like this wool in the pictures, I will be trimming the dart to reduce the bulk.

Any questions?  Ask away!

Beccie
xxx

COATS: The Black Coat Goes Out (for a drink!)

I have a bit of a Friday night tradition.  Every week my husband and I (and sometimes others) head out to a local bar for a cocktail (or three) and a pizza.  For me, its the full stop at the end of the week, and the start of the weekend.

Last Friday I was able to wear my newly finished black coat!

(You will have to excuse the photos - I normally don't like to use flash, but due to the fact it was night time, and the fabric is so black it shows no detail in normal lighting, it was my only option.)

 

Lovely toasty warm pockets for my hands!!!!!

The dotty swirls on the lining match the pindots on my dress!!!

After the photos were taken by my long-suffering husband, off we went to the Goldfish!

We seriously do go there every week, and all the staff know us now.  And I always have the same drink...

This is a Sailor Jerry Mojito.  When we first started visiting regularly late last year, I commented to the barman Dan that I really loved Sailor Jerry rum and he suggested I have a mojito using it instead of white rum.  I was sceptical, but trusted his judgement.  And can I tell you, this drink is fabulous, and I've not looked back!  Now he knows exactly what I want as soon as I walk in the door!!

The Goldfish also has ahhhhmazing pizzas!  The other food on the menu is also fabulous, but Friday night is all about cocktails and pizzas!!!

So thats my Friday night tradition (and my lovely new coat).  Do you have a weekly tradition or treat???

Beccie
xxx

How Much Bias Tape???

The coat sewing odyssey of 2013 has not finished people!  Rather, I have one more coat to go - this one:

Yes, I'm going to make the dress too - but I need to make the coat first!

The reason I started looking at 1940s coat patterns was because of a vintage dress I purchased back in May.  I thought it was black when I saw it online and the colour wasn't mentioned in the listing, and when it arrived it was actually dark navy blue.  Of course I wanted to wear it right away, even though it was winter, so I started to look at vintage 1940s coats.  Unfortunately none of the ones that were the right colour were long enough... and my dress hanging out below my coat is almost as bad as my petticoat hanging out from under my dress - total no-no!  So the only solution was to make my own coat.

Here is the dress that started it all:

It has an adorable peak-a-boo style front - the ruffly bits are bows!

And the print on the fabric is pretty special - its elephants with entwined trunks!

So with the pattern on the way, the hunt was on to find a lovely wool fabric to make it up in.  And I found the perfect thing at Gorgeous Fabrics (or course!)

They still have 8 yards available here

This fabric is the loveliest wool fabric I've worked with this year.  Its a flannel, and its thick and a little bit fluffy, and oh my goodness I bet its going to be warm!

Back to the pattern - this coat is actually a redingote.  This weird word started out in english as 'riding coat' and was somehow turned into 'redingote' by the French, and now thats the term we use to describe a lightweight coat open along the entire front to reveal a dress worn underneath it.  And because its a light coat, it isn't lined.

This is where the bias tape comes in.

Because the coat is unlined you can see all the seams... eeek!!!  To make them neat I need to bind them with bias tape.  With finer fabric I could sew the seam then bind both edges together, but because of the thickess of the fabric I was afraid this would make far too much bulk at each seam, so instead I have to do this:

Excuse the colour - by the time I got to this point it was quite late...

So as you can imagine, to bind each edge (apart from the arm hole seam and the hem) of each piece on a mid-calf length coat takes A LOT OF BIAS TAPE!  I bought 15 metres and ran out with the two side backs and the sleeves to go.  Thankfully I got more this morning.

I am going to do a tutorial on the method I use to get it neat and even.  It might seem a bit over-the-top but its worth it for a nice finish that everyone can see.  Look out for that soon, as well as photos of the finished black coat!

Beccie
xxx

UPDATE: I've just been told by one of my Facebook peeps that this type of seam finish is called Hong Kong Seam Binding!!!  It has a name!!!  I googled a bit and found out that because of its labour intensive nature its only used on high-end clothing, and that its especially suitable for thick fabrics and summer garments that you don't want to line.  So there you go!!!

COATS : The Lilac Coat Goes Out!

I know you have all been waiting for this post - so here goes!

Last Sunday my family and I went out to our favourite breakfast spot (breakfast is my favourite meal to eat out) and I thought 'What a fabulous opportunity to wear my lilac coat!'  Luckily, my step-daughter just LOVES being my photographer.

You will have to forgive me my shoes.  Its winter but I don't have any close toed shoes that go with lilac.  But you can FINALLY see the real colour of the fabric and the fact that the buttons do match it!!!

I do however have an adorable vintage beret which matches the colour of the coat perfectly!  And the extra inches I added to the skirt pieces have made coat extra swishy (if a coat can be swishy).

And I'm really happy with the placement of the pockets!  They are in a really comfortable place to put my hands in - not to mention warm!

And here is my lovely family:

To everyone who has quietly wondered if my family is into vintage too - they aren't.  Its just me.  I stand out like a sore thumb!  On the left is step-daughter Livy, then step-son Zane (who refuses to have is hair cut) and then my lovely hubby Steve.

Our favourite breakfast place is at a nursery.  It is lovely and quiet, which the most relaxing atmosphere.  And they have wonderful tea and amazing food.

Here is a photo of my breakfast.  Lightly spiced creamed corn on sourdough toast topped with crumbled persian fetta, asparagus spears and a poached egg. That crazy looking thing on the left is a hash brown - my goodness they make the best hash browns!

Since I took these photos the weather has been unseasonably warm (again) and I haven't worn the coat since.  I've almost finished the black one so fingers crossed we get a coolish day where I can wear it, even if its only to take photos, cause since I interlined it, that thing is like a doona!

Who else likes going out for breakfast?

Beccie
xxx

COATS : The Black Cape Collar Coat

After putting the finishing touches on the lilac coat on the weekend (outfit post to come), I made a start at finishing the black one.

After a comment from Esz a little while ago, I started thinking about interlining.  The black wool is an incredible fabric, but much lighter in weight than the lilac and the red coats, and to be honest I was worried I would make this magnificent coat and then be cold wearing it.  So the search commenced for an interlining fabric.  What I came up with was this:

This is what's left AFTER I cut my pieces

Its 100% cotton wadding thats used in quilting.  Its unbleached and chemical free so I thought it was a pretty good option - AND its not too thick.  The other bonus is its VERY wide, so I didn't need to buy 5 metres to make the coat, I needed about 1.5 metres.

So on Sunday I set about making the interlining, and discovered the downside to working with 100% cotton wadding.  Its a fluff machine.

My velour tracksuit pants (yes, I do wear tracky pants at home) are actually black, but by the time I had the interlining together they were covered in so much fluff that they looked grey.  Needless to say it also got all over the black wool of the coat.  I now need to invest in a good lint roller!

Anyway, so I got the interlining made and 'inserted', and by then it was night time, so I moved downstairs so I could continue in better light (the light in my sewing room is really bad at night).  I basted the interlining in around the neck, down the fronts, and around the cuffs.

Last night I sewed the bias to the hem, pressed the hem up, and inserted the lining fabric.  Then I sat in front of the TV (after cooking dinner and cleaning up) and hand sewed the hem for two and a half hours!!!  So all that needs to be done now is sew the lining to the cuffs, secure the facing to the back of the bound buttonholes, sew on the buttons AND baste on the cape (I made it removable just in case I get sick of it).  Obviously thats still a lot of work, and while I hope I'll get it all done tonight, chances are I won't...

But!  Here it is at the moment, covered it white fluff:

The cuffs are folded back to reveal the lining fabric as a reminder that I need to sew them, and the cape is just sitting on the shoulders which is why it doesn't look even.  And the facing is pinned around the buttonholes hence the silver lines.  I really should have taken a better photo this morning - sorry about that!

But it will make the final reveal so much better!

This has been a massive project and I'm so close to finishing I can taste it!

Beccie
xxx